Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

We touched down in Ho Chi Minh just after sunset. I turned on my phone to double check the booking info for our guesthouse. It was a university dorm that rents out rooms to the public. We got a large room with 3 double beds and a private bath for about $20. But then I realize its located in District 3… damn! We knew nothing about this city, but what we did read was to book accommodations in District 1, which is the busy tourist/backpacker area. Honest mistake. District 3 is a quiet, suburban area according to what I was reading briefly while waiting for our bags. Not many tourists around here, or restaurants by the sounds of it and of course after our flight we are all hungry.

We checked in and decided to walk the street for some food. We actually were on a main road that had some food options. We grabbed a beer at the 7/11 and walked by a market. A group of locals were sitting at a table eating snails and drinking beer on ice. They stopped us to say hi and being that we just cracked our beers we decided to sit and join them. We spent a solid hour chatting with King, Lee and Hill. Lee was the only one who spoke english so he tried to translate some of the conversation. Laughter and “cheers-ing” is universal language so we stuck with that for the most part. Lee works in tourism and gave us some tips for the rest of our visit. They even bought our beers. Truly good people, we were lucky to meet them. This encounter helped solidify our love for Vietnam. We found an awesome pizza joint before heading back to the “dorm” and crashing. I guess District 3 wasn’t a mistake after all.

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In the morning, we realized the War Remnants Museum was fairly close to where we stayed so we decided to check it out. We hadn’t heard about this place before but definitely wanted to see some more history. The museum was way beyond our expectations. It was a huge building with multiple floors and different areas showcasing horrifying accounts of the war. The whole exhibit really demonizes the American involvement. I can imagine it is hard for some westerners to see. Most shocking was probably the room dedicated to Agent Orange, the chemical American troops sprayed in Southern Vietnam. It shows the horrible genetic defects caused by the use of this weapon. A preserved fetus on display was a shock to see.

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The Vietnamese people have experienced unimaginable pain. Their families, homes and land were destroyed by the war. We left feeling a mix of sadness and anger. Sad for what happened here. And angry that wars just like Vietnam are still happening today, in other parts of the world. Its a disgusting part of humanity.

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After that heavy experience it was time to pack up and move to District 1. We checked into Galaxy Hostel and roamed the streets for the rest of the day. Ho Chi Minh is the largest city in Vietnam. We continued to improve our street crossing skills here and nobody got hit by a scooter! Its a very developed city. It still has smaller areas with charm like we seen in Hanoi, but also modern sky scrapers, designer malls and all that 21st century jazz you would see back home. We grabbed a map and hit a few points of interest like the Reunification Palace, Notre Damn Cathedral, Central Post Office and Opera House.

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A walk around the city isn’t complete without a stop for some refreshments. All over south East Asia you see food stalls and restaurants that have outside seating, but they use “kid sized” plastic tabled and chairs. We noticed this especially in Vietnam. It seems like a local past time to kill the afternoon or evening, eating and drinking beer on ice, while sitting in these little chairs. We made this a usual activity of ours as well. When we met King, Lee and Hill we all sat at the little plastic sets as well. We noticed they had quite the snail and mussel feast with their drinks. We made it our mission to experience that as well. A couple days later we did and it was awesome!

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This part of our trip was special for us. March 17th marked 10 years since we became an item. Anyone that knows Britt won’t be surprised to know we hit a burger joint! We’ve been enjoying all the local foods but Soul Burger hit the spot. We walked back to our hostel through a nice park. It was lit up beautifully and they had these small pavilions busy with couples young and old dancing. A mobile DJ rolls his cart up and plays all the hits. It was really cool to see.

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Another educational excursion we had planned for a while was the Cu Chi Tunnels. Its a couple hours out of the city. We booked a package with our hotel that included bus transportation and a guide. These tunnels were initially constructed around 1948 as a means to hide from French air strikes. It was more famously used for Viet Cong fighters during the American War and expanded to a 200 km system. At one time housing underground hospitals, schools and kitchens. The guide explained the traps used against the American Soldiers who came to the Cu Chi area. We also got to climb through the tunnels. Its a creepy, claustaphobic experience. And these were just the “tourist versions”, expanded to about 1 square metre. The original tunnels were very small and the Viet Cong had to crawl through them on their stomaches. It was more of a “look at the cool tunnels and traps” kind of thing, rather then a war history experience so we were really glad we stumbled across the Remnants Museum as well.

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We have been lucky enough to travel slow for the first part of our trip. Five weeks in India and 4 weeks in Thailand gave us enough time to really get to know a place. Unfortunately with Vietnam and Cambodia, we will only scratch the surface. They deserve so much more time to explore but we are lucky to have spent anytime here. We are already talking about coming back.

 

 

Ha Long Bay by Junk Boat

We knew we had to see Halong Bay. It’s tall limestone islands poke out of the water creating a breathtaking scenery.  Its hard to imagine we discussed taking Northern Vietnam out of our travel plan. It felt like time was running short and we hate to rush. We are glad we decided to keep it in.

Booking a Ha Long Bay tour is a crap shoot. We arrived in Hanoi and planned to book it somewhere, we just didn’t where or how. Its not hard to find a place, every hotel and tourist agency (literally on every corner) will be happy to do it for you. You just don’t know what you will get until you’re loaded on the boat. Package tours don’t appeal to us much anyway. It is possible to tour the bay and book everything individually but we weren’t sure the hassle was worth the reward in this case.

Unless you pay big bucks for high end luxury, what you will find are the same basic options everywhere. Castaways Tour is an exception to this rule, its a highly recommended, booze fuelled, young backpacker party cruise. An expensive option at around $220 CAD but sounds like a blast if your looking for a party. The tours are almost always on a “Junk Boat”, a traditional Chinese sail boat turned cruise boat. We decided to take our chance with a mid range tour suggested by our guesthouse. You can pay as low as $50 for a 2 day trip, but we paid $105 per person. We were advised not to go with the cheapest, jumping up to the next price bracket supposedly gets you a worthwhile increase in food and service quality.

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Our trip included transportation to and from Hanoi (3 hours), all our meals, one night stay on the boat, one night stay on Cat Ba Island and all the fun activities thrown in. Of course the boat didn’t match the pictures or description provided by the guesthouse. But it wasn’t horrible. We had a group of about 20 people, close to what a typical Junk Boat can accommodate. The food was decent. Overall no major complaints, we made the best of it. The crew was good and our ship mates were fun. We will let the pictures tell the rest of the story.

Of course the highlight was the views while cruising the waters.

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Onboard cooking class.

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Kayaking around a floating village and oyster farm.

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A long sweaty mountain hike in Cat Ba Provincial Park.

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Walking deep inside massive caves also on Cat Ba Island.

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Exploring Cat Ba Pier area during our one night stay on the island. Its low season there so its kind of a ghost town. Bonus is we got upgraded to some sweet hotel digs.

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Being dropped off at a beach on Monkey Island. Watching tourists feed or run away from the gangs of monkeys that roam the beach. These guys have definitely been exploited by the tourism. We are their source of food, and they are a source of entertainment. It was weird, yet funny. These guys even developed a taste for beer. No surprise that bites are common here. We were lucky.

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Ha Long Bay is something you have to do. But surprisingly it didn’t leave us with the urge to ever do it again. There is a revolving door of travellers and the tour operators don’t need to focus on quality. We made the best of being shuffled through a cookie cutter schedule, looked past the negative things that come with big tourism, and were able to appreciate Ha Long Bay for what its meant to be.

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Hanoi: Our First Vietnam Stop

Our time in Thailand was up (not to mention our visas) and we were headed to Vietnam. We took the short, cheap 2 hour flight to Hanoi, and arrived about 6pm.

You can’t get visas on arrival for Vietnam. However you can print off a pre approval letter online. Bring it to customs, pay $35 and they will issue one providing your letter is proper and your not a felon. After that process we hit the ATM and pulled out 2,000,000 Dong, or about $120 CAD (the dong jokes did not stop here). We planned to stay in the Old Quarter, the backpacker hub. About a 20 min taxi from the airport.

The Old Quarter is the place to be. It has so much character and you could never get bored walking around people watching, admiring the beautiful old buildings, eating weird food and dodging the thousands of motorbikes that clutter the small streets. Crossing the road in Vietnam is no easy feat. The Old Quarter has no traffic lights, and no one follows the stop signs. Its every man for themselves, and to get across the street alive on foot you just have to close your eyes and hope for the best.

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We had pre-booked our first night at Hanoi Lucky Guesthouse. It is a small, family run guesthouse that has two locations in the Old Quarter. The rooms were nice and big, it was really clean and cheap, and the staff was incredible. Breakfast was included, and they helped us book our Halong Bay tour from there. We would highly recommend this place!

After checking in we set out walking the streets to find dinner. The guesthouse suggested a little spot just a few blocks away. Beef Noodle was the famous dish here.

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We fully intended to dive into some history while in Vietnam. Our first taste of this educational adventure would be Hoa Lo Prison Museum. But first, lunch. Since leaving Canada we hadn’t had a proper sandwich, and Jeff had read that Vietnam was famous for their Bahn Mi’s. A Bahn Mi is a piece of French bread stuffed with pate, meat of your choice, and veggies. They were spectacular. And it wasn’t our last…

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Ok, back to the prison. Hoa Lo was used by the French Colonists to house political prisoners and then later used by North Vietnam to house US prisoners of war. The Vietnamese political prisoners were victims of horrible living conditions and torture at the hands of the French, who also made use of the guillotine here. It still stands today, definitely a creepy site.

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The US prisoners of war had a very different experience. The museum tells a story of good food, lots of leisure time and quality medical care offered to the US soldiers. Propaganda? Maybe, although it is said the US soldiers themselves coined this place the “Hanoi Hilton”. US senator John Mcain was one of the soldiers held here.

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Senator John McCain’s pilot gear, extracted from his plane.

The museum takes a couple hours to go through and costs about $1.50.Hearing about the war from this side is a unique experience.We knew little about it before coming to Vietnam, but our interest was peaked and it left us craving more.

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The rest of the day was spent walking around the Old Quarter, taking in the sights and craziness and stopping to enjoy some of the local brew. The next day we were heading to Halong Bay. Our time in Hanoi was short, but was the perfect introduction to Vietnam. A country we were quickly falling in love with.

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St. Joseph’s Cathedral

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