6 days in Bangkok

We loved the islands, but felt a bit spoiled at the same time. Islands are a vacation, and everything inland is travelling. There is a difference. Both are great but after the R&R we were seeking more adventure, more of the unknown. Bangkok delivered.

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Day # 1

This wasn’t our first time here. We spent 8 hours around the Khoasan Road area waiting for our ride to Koh Tao nearly 3 weeks ago. We wanted to stay in a central place, frequented by other backpackers….so of course we returned to Khoasan Road. We checked into The Wild Orchid a few blocks from the party. If you enjoy sleep, you shouldn’t stay right on Khoasan. The surrounding area has a ton of accomadations for every budget.

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Khao San Road

As we’ve learned already, the website pictures never match the reality of the place you are staying. With such a nice name, “Wild Orchid”, one would assume a certain level of quality. Funny that the hotel name is a flower, yet they put us in a windowless room. A janitors closet turned bedroom, where flowers come to die. Sounds dramatic but it wasn’t that bad. The bed was clean, it had AC and we only needed to spend one night. It was about 9pm by the time we got settled. So we went out for a quick snack and a night cap before returning to the closet.

Day #2

The next morning we had to shuffle to a new hotel. We booked it in the same area but had no idea it ended up being directly across the road. It made for an easy move. We booked a triple room at Erawan Guesthouse. We needed a 3rd bed for our friend Nicole who was joining us on our journey. She plans to continue travelling solo after spending a while with us.  She hopped on the blog bandwagon as well, check it our here. We were both getting excited to see a familiar face from back home.

We took off on foot and walked aimlessly for most of the morning. We had a tuk-tuk take us down to the canal. Bangkok had an extensive canal system years ago, but in recent years they have filled them in for paved roads and infrastructure. Canals still exist today and are a practical means of transportation and popular for tourism. We stopped for a noodle soup lunch at a roadside spot. These roadside noodle stands are very popular amongst locals. Noodles are suitable for any meal, especially breakfast.

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So we weren’t sure how to kill the afternoon, we had lots of ideas but also wanted something kind of chill. We remembered hearing from our friends in India that oddly enough, it’s a good time to walk around some of Bangkok’s malls. They are massive! Very high end shopping. You can definitely access some first world comforts in this city. We decided on Central World Mall, apparently the 6th biggest in the world. It was big, the AC was pumpin’, and who woulda guessed we would find a Krispy Kreme….damn, was India ever a distant memory at this point.

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Well, the mall killed the rest of the day. We kinda wanted some evening entertainment but also knew we had to get up early to meet Nicole. We decided to check out one of the “Red Light Districts”. Probably the most seediest area is Patpong. Home to the famous “Ping Pong Show”, it ain’t table tennis…if you don’t know Google it (not for faint of heart). What goes on in certain areas of Bangkok is not right by a lot of standards, and it definitely challenges our morals. But it’s still something we wanted to see, just to walk around. You would expect it to be a dangerous place given the partying and the sex trade being so prevalent, but it’s actually a place you could see families dining, in plan sight of western men on the prowl for a ladyboy. Maybe not into the darkest hours of the night but surely anytime before midnight, when we were witness to it. It felt safe and harmless to walk around. The Patpong area is also home to one of the cities busiest night markets.

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Patpong Night Market. Just out the front steps of club “Super Pussy”

 

Day # 3

Nicole Arrived! We gave her a big airport welcome. The rest of the day was short on pics but consisted of some serious walking time, a good ole fashion day drunk and thai massages to end things off. I think we slept 12 hours that night.

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Day # 4

Our 4th day felt action packed! First we returned to the canal for a long boat tour. It was cool seeing the locals who live along the waters edge. We also stopped at what the salesman said was a small floating market aka one lady in a boat selling cheap sunglasses and beer. We stopped at a Fish Farm, the whole canal is overloaded with carp, and there was a guy on a dock selling bread to throw in and feed them. Lastly we stopped at a temple “Wat Arun”, which was under construction and mostly covered in scaffolding. If you think that these stops were underwhelming, you are right. But the whole experience was great! It’s another tour that is taken over by touts trying to charge 10x it’s actual worth to tourists. Barter hard and keep expectations low and you can enjoy it like we did. We also road the regular water taxi boat which you can get on for about 13 Baht and it’s something to experience on its own, for next to no cost.

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The “Floating Market”

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We met a new friend from England on the boat tour (in the pic above) and he strongly suggested checking out Wat Pho. So we had our boat drop us off at the closest pier to that temple rather then taking it back to the original spot. Wat Pho is home to the famous reclining Buddha. It was definitely worth the visit. It’s a huge temple and we spent a couple hours there.

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Wat Pho at night. We returned later during the food tour.

After a short relax and refresh at the room we were out on the town again to do the Midnight Food Tour we booked the day before. We booked online through Bangkok Food Tours. This was definitely one of the trips highlights! We cruised the town with a group of about 10 of us split up in tuk tuks. We stopped at 5 spots, experiencing both famously known places, and hidden gems. Tasting the most popular Thai dishes and getting schooled by our super friendly and well spoken guide “Mod”. We also met a fellow Canadian named Brad, who would later join us on some other adventures.

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Day # 5

Like we said, Brad joined us the next day for a thorough tour of China Town and some weird eats. We continued into the evening. The beverages kept flowing and we visited two rooftop spots. The debauchery led us back to Patpong where we visited the Ladyboy area. We shared some drinks and laughs with them, they know how to party. Our new friend shared a kiss with a ladyboy, Britt got proposed to and Jeff had his junk grabbed. All in good fun. The next seedy stop was Soi Cowboy. Another walk down a strip lined with bars and girls standing out front offering there services. Not much excitement there….strictly business. After a short walk we were back to Khoasan and stumbling to our room. Good night.

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Jeff and Brad eating something weird in Chinatown

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Dried soft shell crab

 

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From the roof top of club Cloud 47

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Soi Cowboy

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Wow, that felt like a long post. I guess it was nearly a 6 day review. There was so much fun and so much to see we probably could have broken it up into 6 posts. Oh well. Moral of the story, Bangkok is great, one of our faves. Six days flew by! After our last big night out we were back to the airport and on plane to Chiang Mai. We made the decision to fly to most of our next destinations. It’s cheap and quick. If we traveled slow by road we would have to cut out some areas and we really don’t want too. Hard to believe our trip is coming to an end. Our last day in Bangkok left us 25 days until home. That may seem like a lot but we still have 2 more countries to see (Vietnam and Cambodia). Let’s hope it all works out!

Britt and Jeff

How to Get Scammed in Delhi

At 6:30 in the morning, our plane touched down in New Delhi, India. The air was heavy and you couldn’t see out the plane windows due to the smog. Delhi is the most polluted city on the planet, and the second largest city in the world (behind Tokyo), with a population of over 18 million people.

Delhi is not to be taken lightly. It is crazier, dirtier and smellier then we could have ever imagined. No amount of research could prepare you for how amazing and awful this place is. The intention of writing about our bad experience isn’t to speak badly of Delhi, we haven’t experienced a fraction of what it has to offer. We will go back.

By 8:30am, we were standing out front of the New Delhi railway station. We just got off the express line from the airport, feeling quite accomplished for having navigated this portion with ease. All that was left was following the hand written walking directions we had jotted down from the Smyle Inn website. A quick 10 minute walk would get us to this hostel located in the Main Baazar, a ghetto backpacker neighbourhood full of super cheap accommodations.

Things went downhill real quick from there. We started down the sidewalk flooded with people, vehicles, stray dogs and garbage. We were greeted by a ton of locals offering cheap rickshaw rides. Initially we declined, but ended up accepting an offer because 30 rupees (60 cents) sounded like a good deal and it beat walking. We loaded all of our gear into his sweet ride, and set out for the hostel. He was super friendly, spoke good English, and we felt pretty safe and comfortable. We made a couple turns and then pulled up to the entrance of what looked to be a parking lot. The guy manning the gate walked up and asked, “where are your permission passes?”. He explained the Main Baazar was holding a festival, and because of the recent terrorist attacks in northern India the city was on high alert and we could not enter the neighbourhood unless we had our passes. Sounds legit? He told us in order to obtain these permission passes we had to go to a government tourist office, show our passports, and we would receive them, free of charge. He wrote down the name of the office. He cautioned us to not have any money out, and not flash any belongings because it was unsafe. We were a little leery, but didn’t really have another choice, being that we had all of our stuff and had no idea where we were, so we let our rickshaw driver take us there.

The “tourist office” was a tiny hole in the wall storefront, we walked up some stairs to a little room where a man was sitting behind a desk. We explained our situation but he already knew what we were talking about, and he asked us if we had a reservation at the hostel we wanted to stay at. We said no, and he kindly said he would call and see if there was room for us there.

Now we are aware of the typical scam “oh that hostel burnt down/is full/is closed, I’ll take you to a better one”, which earns the scammer a commission.

He called our hostel (ya, right), and of course they said they were full. He said that there was no way we would be able to get into the Main Baazar area, and the only options for us were to get a hotel in the city center (where prices are 500 dollars and up), or to get a taxi out of the city, because it may not be safe for us anyway. At this point we knew for sure that something was up, and walked out.

Our rickshaw driver was waiting for us outside. Still trusting him, we got back into his rig, and asked him to take us back to the train station. He was hesitant, making up excuses why we shouldn’t go back there, and at this point we were getting nervous, so we were pretty firm with him. He took us to this street he was claiming to be around where the train station was, and it looked nothing like where we had started out. As we spent more and more time with him, his English got worse and worse,  and all of a sudden he could barely understand us. We pulled over to the side of the road, where a well dressed local claiming to be the Delhi Police approached us, telling us the same story that the guy at the parking lot had (festival, terrorism, blah blah blah), and gave us another tourist office to go to, claiming that the one we had been at was fake. He also stressed about keeping all money and belongings hidden, reinforcing the scare tactic. Again, not having much of a choice other than getting out of the rickshaw on a sketchy street with all of our stuff, we set out for the next tourist office.

The next one wasn’t any better then the first. Same look, same style, another guy sitting behind a desk. He didn’t really seem to push the whole Main Baazar being closed thing, but he was pushing the hotels in city center or a driver to take us out of town. Our original plan was to stay at our cheap hostel, and to take the train to Rishikesh in the morning; But with the bullshit these guys were spinning, that plan seemed like a fairytale.  So a hired driver striaght to Rishikesh seemed like the lesser of two evils.

That is unfortunately what we did. Booked a driver at their tourist office and worked out a price that should have included a luxury sedan, a gourmet dinner and a tour of the Taj Mahal.

Thinking about it now, the rickshaw driver, the parking lot guard, the first tourist office, the “police officer”, the second tourist office, and the bank, was a tangled web where everyone gets a cut for bringing the naive, jet lagged tourist to pay huge money for a hotel or a car ride. Even both the men saying for us to keep our belongings hidden was a way for them to make us feel that we needed to stay with the rickshaw driver because we wouldn’t have been safe otherwise, which isn’t necessarily true. Could we have walked out? Could we have booked it cheaper somewhere else? Absolutely. There is no question they wanted our money. But they didn’t seem to want to hurt us, rob us, or any of the other terrible things we thought might happen if we continued to walk around this unknown world loaded with all our belongings.

But luckily 6 hours later we arrived in Rishikesh in a run down van, driven by an old man who didn’t speak a word of English and spent the ride coughing up bits of what we could only assume to be his lungs. After reflecting on this experience, we realize what we could have done differently. We are regretful and bitter about how things went down, but still appreciate the beautiful chaos that is Delhi.

We did not manage to pull out our camera amidst all of this, however we snapped a few pics with our phone of New Dehli and some smaller towns on our commute to Rishikesh.

Britt and Jeff.

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