Quito, Ecuador: Walks & Views

Quito, our first taste of Ecuador, became all about long walks and beautiful mountain and city views. It’s a massive place, being the country’s capital with a population over 2.6 million. It happens to be the highest capital city in the world at 2850 metres above sea level and is also the closest to the equator. We spent our time in “Old City” and the neighbouring districts of La Mariscal and La Floresta. These areas being the most popular with travellers.

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We heard rumours about the presidential elections currently happening in Ecuador. However we didn’t pay much attention to it. Turns out we arrived the weekend of the elections. Apparently there was no ideal outcome as the population is split on the two candidates. A win for either one could mean protests in the streets, potentially getting violent and posing issues for travellers. Just to be safe the government placed a city wide ban on alcohol….nice.

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Election signs and political graffiti were easy to spot all over the city

As soon as we left the airport and caught some glimpses of the city we were pretty excited about the exploring that laid ahead of us. Quito is a stunning city, nestled in the Andes, featuring amazing architecture. Quito proudly possesses one of the most extensive and best-preserved historic centres of Spanish America.

The walking and the views got better each of the three short days we stayed. Day one the view was from the rooftop terrace of our new temporary home, Quito Backpacker Guesthouse. The rooftop offered 360 degree views of the Old City, highlighting La Virgin del Panecillo, a massive aluminum statue overlooking the city and a dark looking gothic cathedral, we agreed we would get a closer look tomorrow. Quito Backpacker Guesthouse was easily one of the coolest places we’ve stayed. It’s like an old colonial mansion, with four floors full of rooms and plenty of common areas to hang. The staff is amazing. $20 got us a private room with a bathroom and a decent breakfast each morning.

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The rooftop terrace at Quito Backpacker Guesthouse

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Day two boasted views from that gothic cathedral we spotted the day before from our rooftop. We learned the proper name too, Basílica del Voto Nacional. What ended up being really cool about this place is that for $2 we could explore the whole church, we climbed to its highest point, across a plank bridge above the main hall and up steep metal stairs to the tower. We took in the views and spent the rest of the day walking around the Old City, which eventually led to our crazy pickpocket story you can read here.

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As if Quito wasn’t high enough from sea level, on day three we went another 2000 metres high on the Teleferico, a cable car that ascends to one of the highest mountain tops, just a few kilometers out of the Old City. This is a must do for visitors to Quito. The views are awesome and you can do a hike while at the top, downhill bike the trails to the bottom or just spend a few minutes wondering around and catch the next car down like we did. We took a cab to the base of the Teleferico but we decided to walk around ourselves after. We zig zagged through the city streets for hours until we literally got shin splints and our feet were too sore to continue.

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A plumbing supply store, Jeff had to stop and take a pic

To top off our final night in Quito, we joined a couple other guests and staff on the rooftop for an amazing BBQ feast. We had unlimited amounts of marinated chicken, pork, beef and sausages and some tasty sides prepared by the staff.

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The rooftop BBQ

The good thing was the elections didn’t effect our time in Quito, things stayed safe overall, no new president was announced during our stay. We may have even enjoyed the odd illicit drink, thanks to the locals that hooked us up!

How to Become a Pickpocket Victim in Quito, Ecuador

We did so much reading about potential dangers and risks traveling Colombia that we didn’t really bother a whole lot with Ecuador. If we did do some more research we would have learned about the prominent thefts, bag snatching/slashing and pick pocketing in Quito. That being said, other than this incident we felt completely safe and comfortable in Quito, night or day. Feeling this safe is probably what led to us getting a bit lazy and becoming a target for thieves.

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This was a few blocks away but same type of street it happened

It was our second day and we were wandering the streets of the Old City around 11:00am. We had just left the Basilica of the National Vow and were headed towards the La Virgin del Panecillo. If you want to know what the heck either of those places are, read our full Quito blog here. The streets weren’t very busy, maybe ten people for every city block. We felt safe. Jeff had his wallet in an unzipped pocket and a backpack on with some random valuables. Britt had a camera around her neck and cell phone in the front pocket of her sweater. If we had we been at a market, bus station or another place known for higher crime rates we might have been more cautious.

We remember a group of three teens walking towards us, each looked to be around eighteen years old. We didn’t pay much attention at the time but after they walked past us, they exchanged some words between each other, we heard this and turned around to notice they were walking back towards us again. Still no major reason to worry, they came close to Jeff and showed him some posters of random cartoon characters asking him to buy. We said “No” but two of them stayed persistent with Britt and were touching her, tapping her shoulder, getting a little too close. We quickly got annoyed and when Jeff said “No” for a final time they carried on. Seconds later, Britt felt her pockets and knew her cell phone was gone. The piece of technology we use for pictures, to navigate city streets, communicate with people back home etc… It sucks to lose a phone anywhere, let alone while traveling.

Our initial instinct was to doubt ourselves. Or at least Jeff was doubting how certain Britt was that she just lost it. The fact was these kids were already a block away from us and the whole encounter was super suspicious. So, we decided to chase them. They didn’t run, but were trying to maintain the space between us. We caught up and stopped them. Obviously there was some serious language barriers but they knew we were accusing them and they strongly denied it, even turning there pockets inside out to prove they took nothing. They tried to leave but we threatened “Policia” and continued to follow them. This ordeal started to garner some attention from local shop owners and other people on the street. We did our best to communicate to them that the teens we are following stole from us. Finally, we had the teens stopped again on a street corner and we were accusing them, telling them to give the phone back, all the while keeping a look out for police or someone to give us a hand. Minutes later a local whistled at a cop on a motorcycle. He stopped and we explained to him as best we could that we think they pick pocketed us and took our phone. He lined them up on the wall and they continued to deny it. One teen got mouthy and said something like “stupid Gringo’s” and this got him a good smack across the face by the cop. It was clear he agreed with us.

It didn’t take long before we were surrounded by a group of at least 20 locals and more police kept arriving to the scene. They took this act of petty theft on tourists very serious. Eventually all three of the teens were loaded into the back of a cruiser. The police asked us to hop on the back of motorcycles with them and we sped off to the station.

The police asked us to wait while the searched the teens. A few minutes later one of the police asked us to come with him, they found our phone. We were relieved. Not only to have it back but to know for sure these little punks actually took it. They brought us back to a corner of the police station, and took a few pics of them returning the phone to us. Whether the pic was for files or bragging rights we still don’t know. Jeff could see they had the teens lined up on the ground, being forced to hold a push up position. One cop stood over them with a huge stick, about 3 inches in diameter and 5 feet long. The police asked us if we wanted to file a report. We have read that usually its a good thing. However we left it up to the police. They didn’t tell us specifically not to but explained in the best english they could that due to the current political situation, and the fact the thieves were younger it may not be a good idea. We still don’t know exactly why. Maybe they don’t like the paperwork. What we do know is the teens didn’t go unpunished. The police told us we could go and the teens would also be released about 5 minutes after us. Based on what we heard while walking away, the big stick was put to use.

The whole situation was a bit overwhelming. Of course we were happy to get our phone back and help catch some thieves. But, it was clear these teens were seriously disadvantaged. Obviously poor, lacking health care and proper education. Thieves are opportunists and we gave them an opportunity. We hope they learned a lesson and made some better choices but reality may be different.

This is why its important to take steps to avoid being a target while traveling. Not only is it for your own safety and belongings, but if everyone does then the career of a thief is a lot less lucrative and these kids might choose something else.

We learned that in addition to selling posters, another front for pick pockets in Quito is flowers. The “mustard trick” is another where the thief discreetly squirts you with mustard or another sauce than approaches, and offers to wipe it off, while taking your wallet. The pick pockets are skilled in Quito. Everything from these stealthy methods to outright cutting the bottom out of you bag and taking off (bag slashing) happens daily. Any belongings you do need to carry are best in a zipped pockets or a hidden pouch. Dont give anyone a reason to think you have valuables or a lot of  money on you and we bet you will find Quito perfectly safe.